Tuto and Solms Panel Discussion

Nelson Mandela Day was celebrated at UFS by a visit from Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu who participated in a panel discussion with Prof. Mark Solms, Professor of Neuropsychology at the St. Bartholomew’s and Royal London School of Medicine regarding “Living Reconciliation: Winds of Change in Franschhoek and Transformation at Solms-Delta Wine Estate”.  Discussion focused upon how to solve the major problems facing all South Africans to include poverty, corruption, crime and racism.  The scope of these issues is incredibly daunting, even to an outsider. As Americans, we don't live in a society in which 48% of the population is severely impoverished. While corruption is evident to some extent in all global communities, the depth to which it extends in SA is shocking and fully apparent. Crime is a common and daily part of life.   Finally, even though apartheid ended in 1994, citizens are divided into three major groups: Black, Coloured (meaning of mixed color), and White.  

Poverty
Throughout SA and on the outskirts of most towns and all cities, the majority of black and coloured people live in what are known as "townships".  Essentially, shacks and tiny concrete houses are grouped tightly together to form their own small towns or cities.  Usually, no ownership is involved.  Public services are limited or non existent.  Many areas are without electricity and running water, and sanitation services are again minimal or unavailable.  I've driven on highways that passed by many townships, and the sheer scope of size is difficult to comprehend.  Some are so enormous that it is impossible to define the boundaries of the township.  Several claim populations of a few million inhabitants.  Rural areas have smaller townships.  Last week, a graduate student in the Department of Theatre and Drama at UFS took me on drive through one of the townships just outside Bloemfontein.  The student, like all black people I have met to date, grew up in the township.  Most of the white students I have met are afraid to venture into the townships due to the perceived threat of crime. 

Nothing prepared me for what I observed.  I've traveled to numerous third world countries, but this was incomprehensible.  We've all seen photos in the press of examples of horrific poverty.  The only means to translate my perspective is for you to imagine those images, and expand them to include 48% of the American population.  Heartbreaking.  Devastating.  Shocking. Appalling. Words really can't describe what I saw.  And, yes, I wept. 

.....and I felt no fear during my visit.

I'll be visiting a township next week, meeting with local leaders, and taking photos. To gain a clearer understanding of the townships, search images using Google or Yahoo.

Crime/Corruption
With such a high rate of poverty, it is no wonder that crime is rampant.  Everyone I've met has been victimized directly on some level, most commonly through theft or muggings.  If you saw what I witnessed in the township, crime begins----at some abhorrent level----to make sense.

Racism
Americans tend to "skirt" discussions related to race.  In SA, issues of race figure into everything.  SA is, of course, still dealing with the fallout from the horrors of apartheid.  While the country is working towards equality, generations will come and go before the focus moves away from division caused by skin color.  It is fascinating to witness a country run---and stumble--- as it moves through the healing process. 

These combined problems are so comprehensive as to seem unsolvable.  Which was precisely the focus of discussion between Tutu and Solms.  Solms, a white landowner whose family estate/farm was passed to him through several generations, decided to transform the lives of the farm's workers.
He realized that South Africans can't rely on the government to better the lives of its citizens.  Rather, Solms decided to start "small" and with the individual.  He first met with each of the families who worked his farm and asked for their input as to how to increase the output of wine production.  At first, the workers would not dialogue with him, which he guessed was due to the centuries of oppression by the whites.  Solms enlisted the aid of psychologists, sociologists and anthropologists by bringing the professionals to his farm to learn and document the farm worker's heritage.  Together, they traced the worker's Bushmen lineage, and Solms quickly realized that like his family before him, the workers had lived on the land for generations reaching beyond his family's arrival to the Cape. 

In the discussion, Solms stated that at one point he knew that perhaps he should return the farm to the natives who originally populated the land.  But he was honest enough to admit that he was torn and lacked the desire to do so.  As he stated, he was very attached to the farm and did not want to abandon the compilation of his ancestor's heritage. So he embarked on a groundbreaking plan.  The farm next to his property was for sale, and he approached his workers and asked if they would be interested in purchasing the land in their names and join together in a wine making venture.  When approached, the bank, however, would not underwrite a loan since the workers did not have credit or property.  Solms co-signed the loan, and used his farm as collateral.  His friends were mostly unsupportive. They reminded him that if his neighbors farm failed, Solms would lose his farm.  Which is precisely why he co-signed.  He knew that everyone in this new business had the potential to lose all assets. But he also realized that each owner and worker became dependent upon the other, and worked every more diligently to succeed.  Since 2007, The Wijn de Caab Trust shares in 33% of the profits of three farms, and has transformed the lives of the workers and residents by breaking the cycle of poverty and bringing healing to the community.

Solms believes that every South African should begin by making small changes to help others. The individual must have the desire to improve the quality of life and set obtainable goals.   Tutu stated:
"I hope that each of you knows that you can be a life changing person.  Say to yourself, 'I want to share my compassion with someone.  I want to make someones life better.'  Ultimately, your success is bound up in the prosperity of the other."

Start small.  With one person.

Arrival

Upon arrival, I was met by a representative from the U.S. Consulate General who took me via train to a hotel in Johannesburg.  Much of the infrastructure in the city was improved for the last World Cup, and the train service is fast, efficient, and very modern.  Early the next morning, the same representative transports me to the Consulate's office where I meet several staff members and attend a mandatory safety and security briefing.  South Africa has the highest statistic for rape incidents in the world, and the second highest murder rate.  Crime is very common throughout the country.  So much so that as of today, July 15th, every person I've interviewed has been a victim of crime on at least one occassion.  These crimes include muggings and home invasions.  While I researched the crime statistics prior to signing on as a Fulbright recipient, living in the reality of what many consider to be a violent country is an entirely different existence. 

It is winter here, so darkness arrives early.  I have been repeatedly instructed to avoid walking across campus at night or go anywhere alone.  Last evening, I was conversing with a visiting professor from the Western Cape, a place which many consider to be the most beautiful area in South Africa.  I asked him if the crime is enough of a deterrent to warrant leaving the country.  His replied that it is far too beautiful and well worth the risks to his personal safety. Although I have yet to visit the Western Cape, I am uncertain that I would trade the freedom I have in America to walk alone as a woman in my neighborhood at any time of the day or night.  Confinement to my flat seems to attack the idea of personal freedom, which I clearly take for granted.  Every conversation I've entered consistently states that it is essention to remain on alert at all times.  Indeed, security bars front all windows and doors, and high safety gates surround properties.  Curiosly, every South African I've spoken with loves their country, and frequently mentions the kindness and friendliness of it's people.  I must add, too, that I've never encountered a more welcoming culture.  South Africans seem to go to great lengths to give assistance when needed, and are quite generous and hospitable.  It is apparent the South Africa is reflective of deep contrasts.

Happy 94th Birthday to Nelson Mandela!  And, Wednesday, July 18th is Mandela Day.  What is this special day?  According to the Nelson Mandela Day web site:

Following the success of Nelson Mandela’s 90th birthday celebrations in London’s Hyde Park in June 2008, it was decided that there could be nothing more fitting than to celebrate Mr Mandela’s birthday each year with a day dedicated to his life’s work and that of his charitable organisations, and to ensure his legacy continues forever.

The Mandela Day campaign message is simple: Mr Mandela gave 67 years of his life fighting for the rights of humanity. All we are asking is that everyone gives 67 minutes of their time, whether it’s supporting your chosen charity or serving your local community.

Mandela Day is a call to action for individuals – for people everywhere – to take responsibility for changing the world into a better place, one small step at a time, just as Mr Mandela did.

Please visit this web site to learn how to make your pledge of 67 minutes:  http://www.mandeladay.com/static/what-is-mandela-day

And, if you would like to learn more about Mandela's extraordinary fight for freedom and equality, I highly recommend his personal autobiography A Long Walk to Freedom.

Independence Day and the Rainbow

Having had the FBI determine I'm not a criminal, and with Treaty Permit in hand, I symbolically depart the USA today for the big adventure. Emotions are varied.  I'm firm in the knowledge that my success is greatly based upon the friends, family and colleagues who support my passions and dreams.  The failures, however, are mine to own. 

In preparation for the trip, I've just completed Thompson's A History of South Africa, which I highly recommend to anyone who has an interest in the formation and foundation of this country.  Nobel Peace Prize winner Archbishop Desmond Tutu first used the term "rainbow nation" in 1994 after the end of apartheid and South Africa's first democratic election.  The term reflects the vast diversity within South Africa  to include race, religion, and language.  When applying for the Fulbright, I was immediately drawn to this country that truly is emerging in their quest for peace and democracy.  To arrive in this new and present era, the people of South Africa have undergone enormous struggles.  In many ways, South Africans are much more diverse than many other countries who are torn by war and strife.  Yet, somehow, immense hurdles have been overcome----and overcome quite recently.  I am eager to witness the dynamics of this quickly changing democracy.  I can't help but consider the few decades following the creation of our Declaration of Independence and Constitution.  We, too, were an "emerging democracy" faced with numerous hurdles.  Our hurdles, of course, are every-evolving.  While diversity often divides our country, the melting pot we've become is one of America's greatest strengths.  I have great hope that South Africa will become a mirror for the world to reflect what is possible when we embrace and find strength in our differences.

With that said, I depart on this 4th of July knowing that I will undergo significant changes throughout the next year.  Every Fulbrighter I've spoken with to date has affirmed that a year abroad has altered them in some fashion.  I enthusiastically anticipate the reduction of my comfort zone.  I truly have no idea what awaits me, but I will be the better for the experience.  And I hope these experiences make my footprint on the world better for having taken this adventure.

Build Up to Departure (Phase 2)

Departure is slated for July 4th, and copious amounts of planning consumes much of my time. Having been notified in late April that I was selected as a grantee, the window until departure is rather minimal. Designated contacts within the Fulbright organization send assurances that all required steps will be completed prior to departure and I'll arrive on the scheduled date.  Had I included a "Phase 1" in this blog, it would have focused upon the lengthy application and notification process, which is quite different from these concluding and somewhat manic steps.  Throughout the last few weeks my time has been dedicated to:

Securing medical clearance:  involved a lengthy exam, signed and documented paperwork, and a review of immunizations. While South Africa requires minimal immunizations to enter the country, I am secure in the knowledge that I've been inoculated against all sorts of nasty diseases! Further armor of DEET and malaria tablets will, hopefully, keep me from further invasions.....time will tell.

Obtaining criminal background clearance from the FBI:  a tricky step. While the application process is rather simple, the processing time has presented a significant hurdle. After having been fingerprinted by a local police officer and submission of necessary information, FBI processing can take up to eight weeks. This is not a problem with a grantee who claims a large window of time until departure, but for me the mad dash is significant. Why? I still need a treaty permit, which I can apply for AFTER having received FBI clearance...hence, a bit of angst comes into play.....

Obtaining a treaty permit: a necessary document for my lengthy stay in South Africa. A treaty permit is obtained through the South African Consular's office, and can take up to six weeks to process. My hope lies in the knowledge that I can pay an extra fee to expedite the process. Of course, I can't submit my application until the FBI determines I'm not a criminal. So I wait. But without the treaty permit I won't be entering South Africa on July 5th.

Working with UFS: flexibility is key! One aspect of the project proposal requires a Fulbright applicant to work with an educational institution in the host country to devise a sort of plan for the length of the grant. My proposal included specific tasks and responsibilities I would perform during my Fulbright year. Since notifying UFS of my award, these tasks have become more clearly defined by the head of the theatre program. My first task is to write an article reviewing the performances in English at the Vryfees Arts Festival in Bloemfontein. In addition to other responsibilities, I've learned I'll be directing a production that opens in August---which will be interesting since the audience will be native speakers of Afrikaans...certainly a new challenge!  I'm currently proposing play titles.  I should note that I do not speak Afrikaans....more on this later.  I'm trying to prepare by learning some basic vocabulary.   "Ek verstaan nie" (I don't understand) and "Ek is jammer, ek kan nie Afrikaans praat nie" (I'm sorry, I don't speak Afrikaans).  On the other hand, I hope to never use "Ek kry nie my bagasie " (I can't find my luggage), or  "Se asseblief vir die olifant sy voet van my rug to verwyder!" (Please tell the elephant to remove his foot from my back!) 

Personal arrangements: a definite challenge. Moving to the other side of the world for a year requires many "to do" lists and reminders.  The house, the dog, finances, etc. Organization is obviously paramount to the departure process, but I can't undervalue the importance of a solid support group at home base. I'm blessed with very supportive colleagues, friends, and family who are working together to ensure my journey is as successful as possible.